Nestled within the embrace of the Swiss Alps, the Valais region's Anniviers valley unfolds, revealing a tapestry woven with the threads of a rich cultural heritage and the artistry of traditional cheese-making. We traverse the same paths once trodden by nomadic communities, today replaced by the image of the quintessential Swiss alpine farmer - a living emblem of cultural identity and subsistence farming. These alpine paths are a gateway into the heart of authentic Swiss alpine life.
Against the backdrop of heavily subsidised agriculture (twice the amount of the EU average), Swiss farmers remain stewards of the land, embodying a delicate dance tied to altitude and terrain. Within this subsidy framework, there is an additional supplement for working steep slopes. The steeper the slope, the higher the payment - a premium to cultivate the same slopes to defend against forest encroachment. In other words, to protect the classic image of the Swiss alpine pasture.
Subsistence farmers play a central role in the Swiss cultural collective consciousness. The idea of the rugged alpine farmer is in images wherever you go, including on the ‘tourist tat’ that visitors buy. But it’s something the Swiss take very seriously as it’s a deep part of their identity and roots, and are determined to hold onto it, including by paying astronomical prices for their locally produced food.
Talking of food, Swiss law clearly states that Alpine cheese is only allowed to be designated as ‘Alpine’ if it is made from the milk of cows grazing at 1000 meters or more. And it’s not just the grazing that matters – the ‘Chäserei’ or ‘Fromagerie’ ('cheese factory') is typically also at over 1000m because the cheeses are mostly single-herd cheeses and therefore the milk can’t be mixed. The cows also need to be milked every day, in situ, with mobile milking machines, so it makes sense to have your cheese-making facility up high, close to the cows.
The next tier down of cheese in Switzerland is cheese with the classification of 'Mountain cheese'. It encompasses grazing land at altitudes above 600 meters, where cheeses can be much more mass-produced, especially since much of Switzerland is at the level of 600m or over. In the rest of Europe, the terms 'Mountain cheese' as well as 'Alpine cheese' are completely unprotected labels. In the eyes of the Swiss, many non-Swiss cheese makers therefore misuse the term 'Alpine cheese' to cover their mass production of severely inferior cheeses!
Why does it matter what altitude the cows graze at? At 676 m above sea level, there are usually only about six different varieties of plants that cows can eat. However, at altitudes between 900 and 1250 meters, there are 9 times as many (54 varieties), and even higher up beyond 1250, you can count 110 different varieties, from 20 different families of plants. In short, the higher the grazing, the more flavor potential for the cheese.
Guided treks through the Swiss Alps provide opportunities to witness the age-old tradition of cheese-making and to immerse oneself in the collective resilience inherent in the Swiss agriculture model. At Mountain Coach, we typically visit one or more alpine cheese farmers while traversing the mountains and sample the local produce. Tête de Moine, Appenzeller, Gruyere, Emmentaler, and many more. Each bite unravels a nuanced flavor profile, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship embedded in Swiss cheese culture. The interplay of flavors, shaped by factors like cow breeds, diets, and cheese-making techniques, all intensified at these higher altitudes, makes for a most wonderful experience.
For those seeking to turn this exploration into a hands-on adventure, Mountain Coach offers guided treks from mountain refuge to mountain refuge along the Anniviers valley. Experience the beauty and indulge in cheese and wine delights along the way, allowing the Alps to reveal their secrets with every step. More info here!
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